Sikkim, to me, is a sliver of land fallen from heaven, witnessed by me, held by my heart. I have hurried through Gangtok along the Silk Route of East Sikkim, climbed the Jongri Pass in the west, and travelled north through Lachen, Lachung, and Yumthang to finally reach Gurudongmar. I have reached it, though I have never really stayed.
At times, I have called Gurudongmar the land of snow; at others, a white world. But this time, in early November, I encountered a new vision-its white body wrapped in a sheer blue muslin veil. In every fold of its being, I left behind the lingering touch of my gaze.
Some believe that once one achieves life’s ultimate goal, desire fades away. For me, every achievement brings quiet fulfilment. Where attainment makes others withdraw, for me, it feels like a fresh gain each day. It becomes an addiction that settles into the body, a habit that takes root in the mind.
The places that stay with me, the places I love- I return to them again and again. Many call this foolishness. But I have seen how a single place wears countless faces across masks of seasons. Summer, monsoon, autumn, late autumn, winter, spring- each tells a different story. I have visited Gurudongmar three times. I have seen it in three distinct forms.
As a child, I first came to the mountains holding my father’s hand. That was where my addiction to the hills was born. Even today, it does not feel like an old love- it renews itself each time. Every return feels like meeting an entirely new presence.
My father used to say, “Mountains demand caution. Your footing can slip at any moment-hold my hand tightly.”
As a father, I now say, “Only when your bones are strong can you conquer the mountains.”
My son says, “It is better to surrender to the mountains. Never challenge them-only then will they love you.”
The mountains feel like an inherited legacy, passed quietly through generations.
And so, I step once more into my journey toward Gurudongmar.
From Lachen, we move forward along a terrifying 60–65 km stretch. Not only in India, I believe Gurudongmar Lake is among the highest lakes in the world accessible to ordinary people. Those who conquer towering peaks may find lakes even higher, but those no longer belong to the human realm- they belong to God, to heaven.
Mansarovar stands at 4,556 metres; Gurudongmar rises to 5,430 metres.
Is this the road to heaven? Is heaven truly beautiful? Can anything be more beautiful than this?
Just as a beautiful woman becomes more radiant with vermilion at her hairline, just as a flower vase grows lovelier when adorned with leaves and blooms, mountains are most beautiful when dressed in green forests. But as we climbed nearly eight thousand feet beyond the greenery, the mountains began to resemble an ageing body, rugged, dry, stripped of life. A desert world of sand, gravel, and sorrow.
Then suddenly, before my eyes, opened a white world-the gentle mountain, eternally young. God could not make green bloom here, so He clothed it instead with an endless blue sky.
The road I am talking about is brutally demanding- an ordeal by fire for city drivers like us. The final kilometre before the lake is treacherous; black ice turns wheels into liabilities as vehicles skid without warning. Leaving Lachen, green mountains accompanied us briefly before fading away. We left in darkness, and as daylight advanced, clouds gathered, making the journey more perilous still.
At 17,800 feet, I stood before God’s magnificent creation- blue water beneath a blue sky, guarded by gleaming white peaks on both sides. Gurudongmar is sacred to Buddhists, Hindus, and Sikhs alike. Here, the presence of God feels undeniable.
But one cannot stay long. Oxygen is scarce. Many fell ill. As I busied myself capturing photographs, Sayat said quietly, “Now I understand why people come to places of terrifying beauty.”
Indeed, only lovers of nature dare to challenge life itself-and only with immense mental strength. Driving my own car from Kolkata to 17,800 feet: without strong bones, one can never conquer the mountains.
From Lachen to Gurudongmar, the journey unfolds through forests, mountains, rivers, deserts—and finally, it felt as though I had parked my car beside a vast blue sea.
Route to Gurudongmar: From city roads to sacred heights
Kolkata → Berhampore → Malda → Kishanganj → Gazoldoba → Malbazar → Lava → Rishop → Kalimpong (approximately 20 hours).
One night at Kalimpong, then onward to Lachen the next day. With permits in hand, leaving Lachen at 5 a.m., Gurudongmar can be reached in four hours. Half an hour is enough.
And now I return, leaving behind this dream world. Snow-covered passes, perilous winding roads, countless streams, simple and innocent faces, peace in abundance. I return to city life, where words are measured, thoughts weighed, steps paused—back to that relentless, crowded rhythm.
To visit Gurudongmar, one must stay at least two nights in Lachen. Numerous homestays are available, with food and lodging starting at around ₹1100 per person.
