Towards the end of last December, I received the news that the Bagrakote–Loop Pool route would finally be opened to the general public. My heart immediately began to race. When I shared the idea with Brahmani, she jumped with excitement and generously declared that she would take care of the fuel expenses, so I should definitely take the car.
That was all the encouragement I needed. Once again, we set off for North Bengal, along that familiar route. Dankuni, Bardhaman, Morgram, Farakka, Malda, Raiganj, Siliguri Bypass, then Sevok, Kalijhora, Panbuuhara, and finally Pabong. We left Kolkata at four in the afternoon and reached Bhattarai Homestay the next morning at eleven. No prior intimation, no announcements apart from Brahmani and me, no one even knew about this journey.
Via Kalijhora, Panbuthara, Yongmakum, and Charkhole, we finally arrived at Pabong. The entire drive was a feast for the eyes and a balm for the soul. From the glass windows of our room at Bhattarai Homestay, Kanchenjunga stayed with us throughout the day. Later, while heading towards Nokdara and Lama Dhara, the mountain roads left me spellbound by the wide, sweeping stretches of National Highway 717A. For anyone who enjoys self-driving holidays, this road is an absolute delight.
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Lunch was simple yet perfect. Aloo paratha with lapsi pickle. The temperature hovered around eight degrees. In the large kitchen, warmed by a wood-fired stove, we spent the afternoon chatting with the Bhattarai family, sharing stories and laughter.
This journey was all about the charm of National Highway 717A.
National Highway 10 has long been the primary route to Sikkim, and although there are multiple roads leading there, this remains the easiest way from Siliguri to Gangtok. Unfortunately, frequent landslides and massive traffic jams have turned NH-10 into a source of anxiety for travellers. To address this, work on NH-717A began in 2018 at a cost of nearly ₹900 crore. This road runs from Bagrakote in Jalpaiguri district, through Lava and Pedong in Kalimpong, enters Sikkim via Pakyong district, and finally connects to NH-10 at Ranipool before reaching Gangtok. NH-717A begins after Malbazar, branching off from NH-17.
This route reveals the serene beauty of Gorubathan, endless tea gardens, pine forests, and the ever-smiling presence of Kanchenjunga. The stretch from Kalijhora to Pabong is particularly close to my heart. If you stop at Panbuthara, you’ll see the Carnation Bridge far below, resting gently over the Teesta, wrapped in a blanket of mist. It feels as if you are viewing the world from a balcony in heaven.
The entire route feels like a hidden treasure of North Bengal. Yongmakum, Charkhole, Lamadhara are each competing with the other in beauty.
My relationship with the hills of North Bengal spans nearly fifty years. I have witnessed all six seasons unfold across twelve months here. To truly experience the mountains, to feel them deeply and observe them with unwavering attention. Before which Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Kurseong, or Mirik no longer suffice. These places have transformed into overcrowded, over-modernised towns where concrete has replaced greenery and towering hotels obscure the sky.
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True nature lovers are now seeking refuge in mountain villages. New destinations are emerging, homestays are flourishing, and travellers can enjoy comfortable stays and home-cooked meals at affordable costs, along with the warmth of a family environment. Instead of traffic noise, mornings begin with birdsong, wrapped in gentle sunlight.
Pabong homestay Hearing the name “Nokdara,” I had imagined a waterfall, but what I found was a vast, serene lake, a mountain-encircled reservoir constantly watched over by snow-clad Kanchenjunga. I learned that nok means black and dara means mountain, a name that felt oddly misplaced amid so much greenery.
From Pabong, we also visited Kaffergaon, Charkhole, and Lolegaon; places I had explored earlier in March, when Kanchenjunga revealed herself in full glory and the hills burst into a riot of flowers. The rhododendrons (guras) had driven me crazy with joy, immortalised in city poetry as:
“Rhododendron… I offer you.”
November’s biting cold clung to our bodies as we headed toward Nokdara and Lamadhara. Above us stretched an endless blue sky. In the soft sunlight, Kanchenjunga appeared shy, her snow-draped beauty utterly mesmerising.
Nokdara Lake lies about thirty kilometres from Bhattarai Homestay. Boating is available here, and spending time by the tranquil waters with Kanchenjunga towering above is a soul-stirring experience. While sipping coffee at a small temporary stall by the lake, I met Olivia, a young girl from Sweden, a passionate nature lover. She had been in the region for nearly two weeks and adored Charkhole and Pabong. The serenity of Pabong calmed her, while the sunrise and sunset at Charkhole filled her with restless joy.
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She spoke highly of India, repeatedly praising the honesty and discipline of the mountain people. To her, Kalimpong was a mine of beauty, Kanchenjunga pouring all her splendour into Pabong, Charkhole, Kaffergaon, Lamadhara, and Nokdara. Hearing her describe Kalimpong as one of the most beautiful flower lands in the world filled me with pride.
On our way back, we stopped at Lamadhara. Standing on the manicured lawn of a beautiful resort, I gazed at the scene - endless green valleys, Kanchenjunga stretched gracefully across the horizon, and a flawless blue sky above. Green, white, and blue held my gaze for a long, silent while.
Watching a magnificent sunset, we returned to Pabong, a quiet mountain village just ten kilometres away.
People often ask why I always base myself in Pabong and explore the surrounding areas from there. The reason is simple - Panbuthara, Yongmakum, Charkhole, Lolegaon, Kaffergaon, Nokdara, and Lamadhara are all close by. Lava is only 55 km away; from there, Rishop is another 9 km, and Kolakham is just 14 km. For exploring the forest villages of Kalimpong, Pabong is the perfect base.
Charkhole’s sunsets are unforgettable, Lamadhara’s sunrise is awe-inspiring, and Nokdara’s tranquil lake stirred my soul.
Where to Stay
Bamboo Villa, Bhattarai Homestay, Sherpa Homestay, Lamadhara Resort, and several others. Daily costs, including meals range between ₹1,200 and ₹1,800 per person.
How to Reach
From Kolkata or any other city, take a train or bus to New Jalpaiguri. From NJP, hire a car for ₹3,200–₹3,500 per day. Via Kalijhora and Panbuthara, Pabong is about a three-hour drive (approximately 75 km).
