Christmas is just around the corner. We Bengalis love celebrations, from Durga Puja to Saraswati Puja, no matter which religion the festival belongs to.
Every year, on Christmas, I go to Bow Barracks. I spent my childhood in Darjeeling, and ever since then, a quiet affection for the missionary way of life has stayed deep within me. Darjeeling leaves a mark on you for a lifetime.
Misty mornings, walking uphill in school uniforms, the sound of church bells, and the disciplined silence of missionary schools—all these together create a special feeling. It is not merely attachment to a place, but attraction to a way of life. Growing up in a missionary environment planted seeds of simplicity, discipline, and humanity within me. Even as age has advanced, those seeds have not faded; instead, they have deepened into nostalgia.
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After the age of holding my parents’ hands while travelling passed, journeys with friends began. Sometimes I was drawn to the Anglo-Indian culture of McCluskieganj in Jharkhand, sometimes to the villages of Goa, sometimes to Shillong. And from my college days onward, whenever we were in Kolkata during Christmas, the five of us friends would go together to Bow Barracks—the only place in our city where Christmas is still celebrated with such grandeur. It was our friend Benhur who introduced us to this famous place. From 25th December to 1st January, Bow Barracks is flooded with cascades of light.
Even today, Bow Barracks stands in the heart of Kolkata as a living symbol and guardian of Anglo-Indian culture. This historic residential area was built during British rule, originally to house British soldiers during the First World War. Its buildings were constructed in a curved, bow-like shape—hence the name “Bow Barracks.” It is another architectural creation of Halsey Ricardo, who was also responsible for the Howrah Bridge. After the soldiers moved to Fort William, the empty barracks were rented out to members of the Anglo-Indian community, and from then on, this place became a centre of Anglo-Indian life in Kolkata.
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Many famous personalities from across the world have set foot in Bow Barracks. Leslie Claudius, the three-time Olympic gold medalist in hockey, lived here. Indian hockey players Hansen and Pinto were residents of Bow Barracks. Filmmaker Anjan Dutt is very fond of this place and even featured it in one of his films. Legendary singer Cliff Richard was born in India and spent several years in Kolkata; Flurys on Park Street was one of his favourite places. From Benhur, I heard that Cliff Richard had visited Bow Barracks in his childhood. Renowned hockey players like Keshav Dutt and Gurbux Singh also spent their lives here, which is why hockey remains very popular in this area. Today, people from many communities—Chinese, Bengali, Nepali—live here. Yet Christmas remains the most cherished festival for everyone.
Among the five of us friends, I am the only one still standing at the crease. By God’s grace, I am still batting steadily—though the occasional inswing or outswing troubles me. Tapan was out at 30, Sachipati at 46, Samir returned at 57, and Dilip could not cross 60. I am still there, aiming for my century. Once upon a time, the five of us would go together to Benhur’s place at Bow Barracks on Christmas, to enjoy homemade cakes and wine—traditions that are still alive in many homes here. I do not know where Benhur is today. Yet, every Christmas, I still go to Bow Barracks. Amid thousands of people, with memories of my friends in my heart, I search for that slim, fair, tall figure of Benhur.
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I arrive in the glow of the afternoon; evening slowly descends, and everything is bathed in light. It feels as though I have reached Bethlehem itself. Such a beautiful, living atmosphere—filled with music, dance, and various charitable activities. Christmas celebrations on Park Street and at Bow Barracks are different experiences altogether, but Bow Barracks touches my heart in a very special way.
Kolkata is a confluence of all religions. This year, for the first time, I brought Brahmani to Bow Barracks. It had been her long-cherished wish to see Bow Barracks dressed up for Christmas. Not just Brahmani—many people I know have never seen the Christmas splendour of this beautifully decorated Anglo quarter of Kolkata.
For the past four years, I have come here alone, having lost my companion. But this year feels different. I feel that from now on, Brahmani will be my companion every year. Once you’ve seen Bow Barracks in its Christmas glory, it’s impossible to stay away. And when I can no longer drive, I’ll come and sitting beside my grandson. At this age, children are busy with their professions, and so people like us are left to live rather isolated lives. Economic realities create a distance too.
Lost in these thoughts, we reached bow barrack with a great feeling
